Why Some Watches Hold Value While Others Depreciate – A Collector’s Guide
When it comes to luxury watches, one of the biggest debates among collectors is which watches hold their value and which ones depreciate over time. Some timepieces, like the Rolex Submariner and Patek Philippe Nautilus, tend to increase in value, while others lose a significant percentage of their retail price the moment they leave the store.
So, what makes a watch a good investment, and how can you tell if your timepiece will hold its value? In this guide, we’ll break down the key factors that determine watch depreciation vs. appreciation and explore which brands and models perform best on the resale market.
1. Why Do Some Watches Hold Their Value?
Several factors influence whether a watch will retain its value or depreciate. The most important elements include:
A. Brand Prestige & Demand
The brand name plays a huge role in determining a watch’s resale value. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet dominate the market because of their prestige, craftsmanship, and demand.
✔ Rolex, Patek, and AP hold value the best because they are recognized as status symbols and have limited production.
✔ Omega, Tudor, and Grand Seiko also perform well but generally depreciate slightly before stabilizing in the secondary market.
❌ Brands like Breitling, TAG Heuer, and Panerai tend to lose more value unless they are limited editions or vintage pieces.
B. Limited Production & Exclusivity
Scarcity drives up demand. Watches with limited production numbers or discontinued models often become more desirable.
✔ Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – Discontinued in 2021, making it one of the most sought-after watches in the world.
✔ Rolex Daytona Stainless Steel (Reference 116500LN) – Extremely difficult to buy at retail, causing resale prices to skyrocket.
✔ Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin – Limited availability and high collector demand.
On the flip side, mass-produced watches tend to depreciate faster because they are easier to find.
❌ Most TAG Heuer and Breitling watches lose value due to high production numbers.
❌ Entry-level luxury brands like Longines and Oris also tend to lose value unless they are vintage or highly desirable models.
C. Historical Significance & Pop Culture Influence
Certain watches gain iconic status due to their history, association with famous individuals, or pop culture moments.
✔ Rolex Submariner (James Bond connection) – First appeared on the wrist of Sean Connery in Dr. No (1962).
✔ Omega Speedmaster (Moonwatch) – The first watch worn on the Moon during Apollo 11 (1969).
✔ Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Worn by the legendary actor, making it one of the most valuable vintage watches ever sold.
Celebrity endorsements and pop culture references can also cause a watch’s value to spike overnight. For example, when Ryan Gosling wore a TAG Heuer Carrera in “Drive”, demand for that model surged.
2. Why Do Some Watches Depreciate?
Not every luxury watch is a good investment. Many watches lose value immediately after purchase, and here’s why:
A. Oversupply in the Market
When a brand mass-produces watches, it reduces exclusivity, leading to depreciation.
❌ TAG Heuer, Breitling, and Panerai produce large quantities of their watches, making them easy to find on the secondary market at a discount.
❌ Many Hublot models also lose value due to high production and divisive designs.
B. Fashion Trends Change
Watches that were once trendy can lose popularity, causing their value to drop.
❌ Big, oversized watches (e.g., 50mm+ Panerai models) were highly sought-after in the early 2000s but have lost appeal today.
❌ Two-tone watches (Steel & Gold) used to be considered outdated but are now making a comeback in 2025.
If a watch follows a short-lived trend, its resale value may suffer when that trend fades.
C. Lack of Brand Recognition
Watches from smaller, lesser-known brands typically struggle to hold value unless they have something unique to offer.
❌ Brands like Bell & Ross, Bremont, and U-Boat make high-quality watches, but they don’t have the same brand equity as Rolex or Patek.
❌ Even luxury brands like Cartier and Piaget often see depreciation because they are more associated with jewelry than serious watchmaking.
3. Watches That Hold Value the Best
If you’re looking to buy a watch that retains its value, these models are among the safest bets:
🏆 Rolex Submariner
✔ The most iconic dive watch ever made.
✔ Holds or increases in value due to high demand and limited availability.
✔ Stainless steel versions like the 126610LN (Black Dial) and 126613LB (Bluesy) are collector favorites.
💰 Retail Price: ~$10,000
💰 Resale Value: ~$13,000+ (depending on condition and demand)
🔥 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 (Discontinued)
✔ One of the most sought-after luxury sports watches ever made.
✔ Discontinued in 2021, causing prices to skyrocket on the secondary market.
💰 Retail Price (Before Discontinuation): ~$35,000
💰 Resale Value: $150,000+ 😳
🌍 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
✔ The only watch certified for NASA space missions.
✔ Holds value well compared to other Omega models.
✔ Often recommended as the best first luxury watch for collectors.
💰 Retail Price: ~$6,800
💰 Resale Value: ~$5,500-$7,000 (depending on model and demand)
🛫 Rolex GMT-Master II (Pepsi, Batman, Root Beer)
✔ One of the best travel watches ever made.
✔ Extremely hard to buy at retail, driving up resale prices.
✔ Classic bi-color bezels (Pepsi, Batman, Sprite) make them timeless.
💰 Retail Price: ~$11,000
💰 Resale Value: ~$18,000+
4. Final Thoughts – Should You Buy a Watch for Investment?
While some watches hold their value, it’s important to remember that watches should first and foremost be enjoyed. Buying purely for investment can be risky, as market trends change.
✔ If you want a watch that holds value, stick with Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet.
✔ Look for limited editions, discontinued models, or pieces with historical significance.
✔ Avoid mass-produced watches that lack brand prestige.
At the end of the day, the best watch to buy is one that you love wearing—because no matter the resale value, the memories you create while wearing it are priceless.
Upgrade Your Watch with a WIS Strap
No matter what watch you own, the right strap can transform its look. At WIS Straps, we offer:
✅ Quick-release rubber & leather straps – No tools needed for swapping.
✅ Premium Italian leather for classic timepieces.
✅ Military-grade NATO straps for sports & dive watches.
🛍️ Find the perfect strap for your watch at WISStraps.com!
